Authentic Caribbean Travel: Discover The Vibrant Beauty of Vieques

Just off the Eastern coast of Puerto Rico, the quaint island of Vieques offers a more secluded paradise with one-of-a-kind nature unlike any other. The beachsides offer the perfect next stop after exploring the El Yunque rainforest. Taking the ferry over, we passed right beneath the first double rainbow I’ve ever seen- and honestly, it couldn’t have fit the tone of staying in Vieques more perfectly. Enjoy this guide to experience the natural wonders of this island destination.

Click to find a list of boutique hotels and B&Bs

The Brightest Bioluminescence in The World

Upon nightfall, the waters of Mosquito Bay in Vieques transform to glowing hues of electric green and blue in the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay. The best method to experience this is a nighttime tour with clear kayaks to fully experience the glow, and learn all about the bay’s natural phenomena from your guide.

About Mosquito Bay

Mosquito Bay, thankfully named after a ship not the insect, received its name from El Mosquito, the vessel of Puerto Rican pirate Roberto Cofresí, who many locals regard as the true “Pirate of the Caribbean.“ is truly extraordinay. This bay has maintained the brightest luminescence in Puerto Rico (and the rest of Earth) thanks to their conservation efforts. They protect the little single-celled organisms which are responsible for the jewel like “glow”— the dinoflagellates. Other bays of Puerto Rico have dimmed alarmingly due to disruptive products worn by humans being allowed to swim (mosquito repellent and sunscreens are blamed), and have limited visibility due to light pollution.

The bioluminescence was too amazing to capture on camera! But click above to view the amazing locally owned guided tour I chose.

One of the most fascinating stories shared by our guide was one from the island’s indigenous Taíno people. He described that they once prayed to the water gods for more fish to feed their community. Soon after, one man ventured out at night to try fishing, and to his amazement, the waters shimmered with a glowing light that revealed all the marinelife swimming beneath the surface. This same divine gift is what we now know as bioluminescence, still enchanting visitors to this day.

Vieques has so many amazing sights, but this alone made the entire trip worth it!

Crystal Blue Water, Black Sand Beaches

Click for link to a full Vieques Beach map with water quality ratings

Adventuring around Vieques feels like you have found a hidden paradise, with few crowds and untouched greenery at the beaches, at times likely to have the whole stretch to yourself. Even on a short stay, the friendly locals make their pride for the island known, with visible sustainable measures to preserve the picturesque waters and the quaint Caribbean surftown experience that makes Vieques so special.


The natural charm of the island’s beaches is often described as feeling like the old Caribbean, undisrupted from the surplus of resorts and commercial developments. The sense of seclusion has been uniquely maintained due the to much of the island’s rare coastal sights and marine habitats being protected under the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, formerly under authority of the U.S. Navy. There are many beaches to explore as they range widely in appearance, marine habitats, and surf conditions.

One of the most interesting sights on the island is Playa Negra, a beach with rare black sand formed from volcanic material. This is sourced from Monte Pirata, the highest mountain on the island. The contrast of the dark sand with the vibrant blue shores feels outerworldly.

Rope wing on my walk to the black sand beach. There was no one in sight the entire time!

Black Sand Beach Directions

You will be driving along Route 201 and will see the beach’s sign along kilometer marker 7.0. There will be a 15-20 minute walk along a dirt trail to leaf you to the black sand. Be prepared for the trail to be muddy if there has been rainfall. The following will navigate you to the beach’s parking:

18°05'55.2"N 65°29'26.8"W

Vieques Local Snorkeling: Advanced and Beginner Recommendations

While there are numerous snorkeling spots on the island, Mosquito Pier is a local favorite to swim alongside the marine life. Snorkelers here spot starfish, hawksbill turtles, squid, tarpon, seahorses, barracuda, sea urchins, the list goes on. There will be many smaller colorful fish near the rocks, with larger species the farther out you swim. If you opt for this option instead of a guided tour, nearby dive shops will have daily gear rental available for you. Note:There is not lifeguard supervision nearby so be sure to take proper precautions in this location.

If you are looking to snorkel in a more shallow area or have small children, head for Playa La Chiva or Playa Caracas for easy access to clear waters with gentle currents.

Click to read more about the marine life!

Some multi-colored shells I found all within a few minutes of walking

Experience The Island Through Your Stay

Vieques is a fantastic spot for travelers to venture off the mainland to experience a slower paced, more local beachside experience with fewer tourist crowds. Staying at a bed and breakfast or boutique hotel will extend that laid-back atmosphere into your island stay, offering thoughtful touches larger resorts often overlook. For instance, while staying at the boutique hotel Blue Horizon, I swam a few feet away from wild horses, stumbled upon a completely empty beach with rope swings, and slept in a cozy standalone villa surrounded by nature.

Click to find reviews of restaurants in Vieques!

Walk through the streets of Isabel Segunda to encounter colorful murals, mosaic benches, and local art galleries. Nature lovers can also enjoy hiking trails, surf at Navio beach, or head to Laguna Kiani for birding.

Click to find horseback riding in Vieques!

Ferry or Fly? Vieques Transportation

There are a few options on transportation, all with beautiful views of the surrounding waters.
Ferry from Cieba ($)

  • Most budget friendly

  • Cost: $2.50 one way

  • Ride duration: 45 minutes

    • *Can take up to 1.5 hr with loading time and prone to delays*

  • Tickets sell out quickly, so buy in advance!

  • Note:

    • Beautiful water views, but seas can be very choppy

    • AC on board, and only some boats have an outdoor deck option

    • Rental car parking available

Link: https://www.puertoricoferry.com

Flight Options (one way):

  • Fastest and most scenic option

  • From Cieba (SIG)

    • Ride duration: 15 min

    • Cost: $45+

  • From Isla Grande (RVR):

    • Ride duration: 8 min

    • Cost: $90+

  • From San Juan (SJU):

    • Ride duration: 25 min

    • Cost: $100+

  • Note:

    • Amazing aerial views of the coastline

    • On-site airport parking available

    • Consider transferring after arriving in SJU and making Vieques your first stop, so you can rent a car on the mainland for the rest of your time

Link: https://www.viequesairlink.com/

Welcome to Vieques!

Heading to The Rainforest Inn:

After enjoying some beachside paradise, come enjoy a stay below the canopy of El Yunque Rainforest at our bed and breakfast, The Rainforest Inn! We have a seventy foot waterfall waiting for any nature lovers looking to do our private hike here into the national forest. After saying goodbye to the glowing dinoflagellates, you can make your way to hear the nightly serenades of our beloved coquí frogs. Check out our transportation page for tips for travel arrangements!:
https://www.rainforestinn.com/transportation